Trip Inspiration

Procida: An Affordable, Crowd-Free Alternative to the Amalfi Coast

Procida island is a calm escape from the busy Amalfi Coast. Every summer, Positano and Amalfi draw visitors from all over the world. However, this tiny island in the Bay of Naples keeps a slower, lived-in pace, writes Melanie Kaidan for Express.

Why Choose Procida Island

Pastel houses of Marina Corricella on Procida island, Italy
Photo: Velvet, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Amalfi Coast is one of the most popular summer spots in Europe. But big crowds bring packed beaches and pricey restaurants. As a result, even the prettiest corners of Italy can feel overwhelming.

Procida is different. In fact, many Italians and in-the-know travellers spend their time off here instead. According to Kaidan, its beauty lies mainly in its authentic, lived-in character. For example, its ports are dotted with fishing boats. Also, pastel houses frame the waterfronts. Meanwhile, the winding roads look barely wide enough for local traffic.

Above all, daily life sets the mood. You will see fishing nets tended by the harbour and washing on the balconies. Also, residents chat outside local shops. Instead of luxury yachts, fishing boats bob in the harbour.

How to Get to Procida Island

Procida is just a short ferry ride from Naples. Also, it has good links with nearby Ischia. In addition, seasonal boats connect it with Capri and parts of the Amalfi Coast. However, check the timetables carefully, because these routes do not run equally often all year.

Once there, you can explore on foot. After all, the island covers just four square kilometres. Still, its hills and narrow roads can make some walks harder than expected. So in summer, local buses, taxis and e-bikes are good options. Also, seasonal rules usually stop non-residents from bringing cars and motorbikes.

Terra Murata and Marina Corricella

Pack comfortable walking shoes. After all, some of the best views of the Bay of Naples are in Terra Murata. It is a fortified medieval settlement on the highest point of the island.

At the top, the climb pays off. For instance, you look down on Marina Corricella, where stacked pastel houses overlook the old fishing harbour. Terra Murata is also home to the Abbey of San Michele Arcangelo. Next to it stands Palazzo d’Avalos, a former palace that later became a prison.

Beaches on Procida Island

The beaches here have dark volcanic sand. So they feel softer than many rocky coves on the Amalfi Coast. For example, Chiaia has shallow water and views across the bay. Ciraccio, by contrast, is one of the longest beaches on Procida. Finally, Pozzo Vecchio was a filming location for the 1994 film Il Postino.

In general, the beaches are more relaxed and spacious than the big resorts on the coast.

What to Eat

Lemons are among the best-known local ingredients. In fact, they turn up in drinks, salads and desserts. The standout treat is lingua di Procida, a flaky pastry usually filled with lemon cream.

For lunch, locals and visitors mix at seafood places in Marina Corricella. Kaidan names Caracalè and La Gorgonia. Afterwards, the tiny Felice Mare bar serves a refreshing lemon granita. Alternatively, small alimentari sell fresh produce, warm focaccia and local cured meats. So you can put together a seaside picnic before a long walk.

Of course, Capri and Ischia have fancy hotels, trendy beach clubs and boat trips. Procida, however, suits travellers who want dolce far niente, the sweetness of doing nothing, for less. As Kaidan puts it, Procida may lack the polished glamour of the Amalfi Coast. “But for travellers seeking the region’s famed colourful waterfronts, volcanic beaches and a taste of island life, that is precisely the point.”

Want more ideas? Then see our guide to five affordable Italian islands, or visit Salerno on the Amalfi Coast.

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