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Exploring Mahe: What Makes the Main Island Unique

For many centuries, the only inhabitants of this place were birds, crocodiles and sea turtles. Today, Mahé is a popular resort in the Seychelles that draws visitors from all over the world. It has bright, colorful scenery and is a great place for a beach vacation.

General information

Mahé is the largest island in the Seychelles and a popular resort. It covers 155 km2, and in 2022 its population reached 90 thousand people (almost 90% of the archipelago’s total population). Most of them live in the east and north.

Mahé is the heart of the Seychelles. It stands out from the other islands for its well-developed infrastructure and good roads. It is also home to the capital (the city of Victoria), the airport, the commercial port and even the university.

City of Victoria

The culture here blends European, Asian and African traditions. The island’s Creole residents speak French, English or Seychelles Creole. Most people are Catholic, but other religions are practiced too. There is no tension between them. In fact, the island’s Catholic cathedrals stand comfortably alongside a colorful Hindu temple and a mosque.

The main attraction of Mahé Island is its nature. From a bird’s-eye view, the island looks like one solid mountain crisscrossed by many rivers. The terrain really is mountainous, but everything is covered in dense tropical vegetation. As you walk through the forest, you will see many endemic plants and endangered birds, insects and animals. Underwater life is just as diverse: there are about 20 species of sea urchins alone, and ancient turtles crawl right up onto the beaches.

Victoria, Seychelles: A Complete Guide to the Tiny Capital

What to see and do

Photos of Mahé Island show how many interesting sights it has. The sightseeing starts in the capital, where you will find the Natural History Museum, the Clock Tower, the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, Clark’s Market and more.

Morne Blanc

On longer trips, you can visit parks and gardens, an artisan village, a tea factory, a rum distillery, the Michael Adams Gallery, a botanical garden, waterfalls and the hike up Morne Blanc. To plan a detailed route, see our guide to the best things to do on Mahé. It also describes the island’s main attractions in detail, with photos.

How to get around the island

You can get around Mahé in several ways. Here is a look at each one.

Buses

Mahé currently has more than 40 bus routes. Each bus shows its route number, or a number with a letter, in the window. Buses leave from Victoria Bus Station, circle the island and stop at the most popular beaches.

Mahé Island Bus Station

The fleet is a mix of old Indian buses and newer air-conditioned ones. The fare is a flat SCR 8 (about 60 cents) on any route. Buses are cashless, so buy an SPTC or visitor card first. The timetable is posted at the bus station. Buses usually run from 5:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. They come about every 15 minutes. As a rule, there are significantly more trips on weekends.

Bus stops are marked with the words “BUS STOP” painted on the asphalt. To get off at the right place, watch the road and press the button in time (the bus stops on demand). A typical bus station has marked platforms with information signs, a waiting room, an information desk, a ticket office, a snack bar and a toilet.

Ferries and boats

Ferries and boats run by Cat Cocos connect Mahé with the neighboring islands of the Seychelles. They run regularly and cost less than flying. The ticket price depends on the class of travel and is about €58 (roughly $65–70) one-way for an adult on the main deck, including the port fee (children’s tickets are slightly cheaper).

Domestic flights

The only airline in the Seychelles is Air Seychelles. Its planes fly from Mahé to Praslin, Alphonse, Bird, Desroches and Dennis Islands. Flights run on a schedule. Flights to Praslin, the most popular route, start at about $155–160 round trip. You can also book a private flight with Helicopter-Seychelles.

Air Seychelles aircraft

Car rental

Mahé has plenty of rental agencies, but during the tourist season cars get booked up quickly. You can find a list of rental companies at the airport terminal. They include Hertz, AVIS, Tropicar, Eden, Omega and others. Car rental starts at about €40–45 (roughly $45–52) per day. Basic insurance is usually included. Reducing the excess costs about €10–30 per day.

Mahé taxi service

How much does a taxi cost on Mahé? Taxi fares are frankly too high. By law every car must have a meter, but in practice many don’t. Taxis are pricey and many drivers quote flat fares rather than use the meter. Agree on the price before you get in. Ask whether there is an extra charge for luggage before you set off. Airport to Victoria is about SCR 300 ($21). Victoria to Beau Vallon is about SCR 400–500 ($28–36). Always agree on the fare first. Taxis are available only on Mahé. The taxi stand is in Victoria on Albert Street, just behind the post office. Cars wait there around the clock, so there is no rush to get one.

If you don’t speak French or English, you may have trouble communicating with taxi drivers. Some drivers keep the change or take passengers the long way around to run up the fare.

Beaches

Mahé’s beaches are open all year round. The weather in the Seychelles is stable and not subject to cyclones. The only drawback is the monsoon downpours. The climate is warm, tropical and humid. Air temperatures range from +24 to +32°C, and the water warms up to +28 to +30°C.

The driest period is from late spring to October. Then the rainy season begins. The rain mostly comes in heavy but short downpours. The humidity is highest in December and January. The hottest month is April.

The best thing about the beaches is that they are free. You can go to any of them you like. Make the most of it, because the beaches on Mahé are completely different from one another. They differ in sand color, water temperature, the shape of the sea floor and even the shells. Almost all offer diving equipment rental, boat rides, various water sports and good fishing. A few meters offshore, there are platforms for diving.

In total, Mahé has about 70 beaches. You are unlikely to visit them all, so start with the best ones.

Anse Intendance

This is one of the most famous beaches on Mahé. It is in the southwest of the island, 15 km from the airport. Banyan Tree’s luxury villas line the whole coast, which is just under 1 km long.

Anse Intendance Beach

Despite its huge popularity, Anse Intendance has little infrastructure. There are no shops at all, just a tiny bar with chairs carved from tree trunks.

What sets this beach apart is its strong waves and rocky bottom. With no reef to break them, the waves are much steeper here than anywhere else (especially in the trade wind season, from June to September). For this reason, Anse Intendance is better for surfing than for a traditional beach day.

Professional lifeguards keep visitors safe. Topless sunbathers also often gather here.

Anse Royale (Royal Beach)

One of the largest bays in the southeast of Mahé, it has crystal clear water and beautiful views. It is a good spot for scuba diving, since the rich coral reef is home to countless brightly colored fish.

Anse Royale Beach

The best time to visit is during the northwest trade wind season, when the water is warm and calm. Even then, watch out for undercurrents. They appear suddenly, so don’t swim too far from shore.

Anse Royale has a local market, grocery stores, souvenir shops and takeaway restaurants. There is a parking lot and a gas station nearby, but no hotels (and no water activities). Local fishermen do moor their boats here, though. You can arrange to join them on a morning fishing trip.

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Anse Takamaka

Anse Takamaka looks like the desert island from a Robinson Crusoe movie. It is on the southwest coast of Mahé. It is named after the takamaka tree, which has thick green leaves and gives plenty of shade.

Anse Takamaka

The shore is very steep, but the ocean is clean and warm. At one end of the sandy strip, there is a Creole restaurant and several luxury villas. At the other end, there are shops, private apartments and granite boulders with excellent views of the area.

There is a parking lot near the beach, beautiful rows of palms line the grounds, and music plays all day. The only drawback is that at certain times of year the current is so strong that you can’t swim.

Beau Vallon

The most popular beach on Mahé is on the northwest coast. Its main advantages are its length (about 2 km), soft powdery sand and luxury hotels. Beau Vallon also has well-developed infrastructure. You will find inexpensive restaurants, casinos, bars, diving centers, souvenir shops, sports equipment rentals and all kinds of accommodation.

Beau Vallon Beach

The bay is very quiet and peaceful. It is a great place for families with children. There are no strong currents, sharp rocks or corals, and lifeguards are always keeping watch.

There is a parking lot nearby. Beau Vallon also offers boat trips to neighboring islands, and the Bazar Labrin market is a good introduction to Creole culture.

Petite Anse (Anse la Liberté)

It is in the southwest of the island near Anse Soleil. It is harder to reach, but just as beautiful. The beach has snow-white sand and large boulders. The water is shallow near the shore, and the ocean shimmers in every shade of blue. Four Seasons Resort Seychelles “looks after” this beach. There are swings, umbrellas and sun loungers on the beach. Nearby, you can find several cheap but cozy hotels.

View of Petite Anse

Baie Lazare

The place is named after its discoverer, the Frenchman Lazare Picault. In 1742, he opened up Mahé to the French. Just as it was then, Baie Lazare is a palm-lined bay on the island’s southwest coast.

The Kempinski Seychelles Resort

The beach is narrow but very long. Despite all the activities on offer, there are few vacationers, mostly guests of The Kempinski Seychelles Resort 5* and the Lazare Picault hotel. Besides swimming, you can go snorkeling, diving and kayaking, and book trips to neighboring islands.

The beach has restaurants serving local, Eastern and European food, plus umbrellas and sun loungers. A highway runs nearby, so you can drive right up.

The only drawback is the strong current from October to June. Swimming is not allowed during this time.

Sunset Beach

It is on the northwest coast of Mahé, 18 km from the airport and about a 20-minute drive from Victoria (look for the Sunset Beach Hotel). It is a good place for swimming and snorkeling. For snorkeling, we recommend the rocks around the hotel. Besides the diverse underwater plants and animals, you can see sea turtles there.

Photo: Sunset Beach

As its name and rave reviews suggest, this beach has the best sunsets. The sky turns bright red at sunset and outlines the neighboring islands beautifully.

Dense tropical vegetation provides natural shade, and the snow-white sand stays at a comfortable temperature, so you don’t need special shoes. But be extra careful with children on Sunset Beach. Don’t leave them unattended, because the depth changes sharply even near the shore.

This and some other beaches on the island are included in our list of the most beautiful places on the Seychelles coast.

Anse Marie Louise

This beach, with small cliffs on both sides, is in the Belle Ombre area. It is at least 300 meters long, but there are almost no tourists. Despite its pristine beauty, Anse Marie Louise is an oasis of peace and quiet. First, the current is very strong, so swimming is not allowed. Second, the snorkeling is not very good. The whole sea floor is covered with dead coral reef, which died when temperatures rose in 2004.

Photo: Anse Marie Louise

There is no infrastructure, either. Along the coast, you will see only one hotel (Fisherman’s Cove) and a couple of other places. In front of the hotel, there is a tour desk where staff can give you all the information you need. But Anse Marie Louise often hosts outdoor wedding ceremonies.

The easiest way to reach Anse Marie Louise is to follow the trail that starts at Chalet d’Anse Forbans and leads straight to the bay.

Accommodation

Mahé is traditionally divided into four parts.

North Coast

Noisy and crowded, with an active nightlife. You will have plenty to do in the evening, with cafes, bars and discos open until late. This is also where Beau Vallon is, the most popular spot for a beach vacation.

Downsides:

  • People go to bed late in this part of the island, so if you are traveling with a child and value your sleep, the area is unlikely to suit you;
  • The north is quite rainy, and the rain here lasts longer, because the island’s highest mountains are close by.
Photo: STORY Hotel Seychelles

South Coast

It gets quieter and quieter here. The pace of life is more relaxed, and housing is cheaper. When it rains, at least it doesn’t rain all day. The most popular beaches are Anse Takamaka and Anse Intendance.

Downside: everything closes early, including the stores.

West Coast

This is where the best 5* hotels are, with their own beach areas. Despite its length, the coast is wilder and more secluded than famous Beau Vallon. It will appeal to anyone who loves peace and quiet.

East Coast

Although this part of Mahé has some quite good hotels, it is not popular with tourists.

Either way, you won’t run out of places to stay. There are more than 30 hotels of different star ratings, as well as many lodges, villas and guest houses. Most are right on the coast, a stone’s throw from the ocean.

Service levels and prices vary, so there is something for every taste and budget. A standard 5* double room starts at $370. A lodge or 4* hotel will be about a hundred dollars cheaper. Guest houses and apartments are the most affordable option, from $90.

Mahé Best 5-Star Hotels for a Lavish Escape

Food on Mahé

You can find restaurants, cafes, bars and takeaways in almost every part of Mahé. They range from romantic places by the ocean to family spots serving European, Asian or Creole food. Creole restaurants offer many kinds of fish, delicious seafood, exotic fruits and dishes made with coconut oil and vanilla essence.

The main local specialties are tektek soup (made with small shellfish), breadfruit, coconut nougat and, of course, shrimp. Shrimp is prepared in many ways, but the most popular are fried in garlic oil, or seasoned with curry and drizzled with sweet sauce. Another traditional dish, rice with chicken curry, is also very popular.

Dish at The Boat House restaurant

When ordering in a cafe, remember that Creoles like their food very spicy. To avoid spoiling your dinner, ask for less spice. To drink, try white Orchid vanilla tea, Sey Brew beer and Takamaka rum.

A few words about prices on Mahé. Lunch for one in an inexpensive cafe costs about $8–15. A mid-range dinner for two is typically $50–100. A takeaway meal costs about $6–10. A beer in a bar costs about $8–11 (in a shop it is about $3.5–4.5), a cappuccino costs $3.5-4.5, and a small bottle of cola or mineral water costs a little less than $2.

Prices at the island’s markets are also quite reasonable. Cheese is the most expensive item (almost $15). Chicken fillet and beef cost $3-5, and vegetables, fruit, rice and bread about $2.

Useful tips

Before you go to Mahé, keep these tips in mind:

  1. It’s easy to get sunburned in the tropics, so use a good sunscreen even in cloudy weather (especially for children).
  2. You are unlikely to need jeans or long sleeves on this island, so pack light, breathable clothing.
  3. It is cheaper to pay in local currency, although every seller takes dollars and euros.
  4. Traffic in the Seychelles drives on the left, so keep that in mind if you plan to rent a car.
  5. If you arrive during national holidays, buy drinks and food in advance, because nothing is open on those days. The supermarket has the lowest prices.

Finally, here is an interesting fact. Mahé is one of the places where people still turn to black magic. Everything related to it is called “gris-gris” here. Creoles consult sorcerers not only when they are ill, but also before an important job interview or for help with business matters.

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